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Queens
O
nce upon a time, when a bride left the
family home to establish her own household,
tucked in her trousseau would invariably be
a large, heavy cookbook. Something by Constance
Spry or Mrs Beeton, full of good advice for the in-
experienced cook.
In our food-obsessed family, it is Stephanie Alex-
ander's The Cook's Companion that accompanies
us as we embark on voyages beyond our mother's
kitchens. Some receive the "big orange bible" as a
wedding present, others at a significant birthday. It
represents culinary independence: with Stephanie
beside you in the kitchen, few ingredients intimi-
date for long. Also on my bookshelf and equally
thumbed through and food-stained is Donna Hay's
Modern Classics, Book 1.
The books couldn't be more different in style, nor
could the authors, separated as they are by genera-
tion and professional background (one a cook and
restaurateur, the other a food stylist and magazine
editor). Alexander and Hay do have one thing in
common: both have taken a talent for good food
and turned it ­ and themselves ­ into enormously
successful brands.
In Australia Hay is HarperCollins' most impor-
tant author, her cookbooks reportedly make up
10 percent of its Australian sales (they have sold
3.3 million copies worldwide, translated into nine
languages). Hers is the top-selling international
food journal in American bookstores Barnes &
Noble and Borders, and in Australia each issue
of her bi-monthly Donna Hay Magazine attracts
about 373,000 readers.
Alexander's influence in the food sector is
as strong as it was when she was doyenne of
Melbourne's culinary set in the 1980s. At
Stephanie's Restaurant, her willingness to
mix classic French techniques with mod-
ern ingredients and flavours paved the
way for modern Australian chefs such
as Neil Perry and Christine Manfield,
and her media articles inspired chefs
and home cooks alike. She has written
10 cookbooks, and the encyclopaedic
A Cook's Companion has sold more
than 400,000 copies since its publica-
tion in 1996.
And there are others, too: chef and
hotelier Alla Wolf-Tasker AM of the
Lake House in Daylesford, Vic-
toria, built Australia's most ac-
claimed country restaurant and
hotel, and her support of the
local producers is the stuff of
legend. She was recognised
in 2007 for her services to
regional tourism and hos-
pitality with the Member
of the Order of Australia
Medal.
of the Kitchen
Anna Gibson delves into how Donna, Stephanie,
Maggie, Alla and Cath turned dinners into dollars.
april/may 2009
17
Donna Hay